FRIJOLES REFRITOS EN MANTECA BEANS REFRIED IN LARD

As you flip through this cookbook, you’ll notice that I use lard as an ingredient in some dishes. Is this “modern”? Maybe. While I’ve used it in my cooking forever, lard seems to be making a comeback. Like other animal fats, it doesn’t deserve the bad reputation it got during the days of the fat-free craze. We now know that lard is lower in saturated fat than butter, and since it’s less likely to burn at high heat, you need less of it to cook with. Also, just as you can buy organic meat that is pasture-raised and antibiotic-free, you can buy lard from these same animals. Lard does not result in “heavier beans.” On the contrary, beans cooked in lard are more unctuous and silkier than their oil-cooked counterparts. Like other animal fats, it doesn’t deserve the bad reputation it got during the days of the fat-free craze. We now know that lard is lower in saturated fat than butter, and since it’s less likely to burn at high heat, you need less of it to cook with. Also, just as you can buy organic meat that is pasture-raised and antibiotic-free, you can buy lard from these same animals. Lard does not result in “heavier beans.” On the contrary, beans cooked in lard are more unctuous and silkier than their oil-cooked counterparts. As is so often the case, there’s a reason a tradition lasts: because the food tastes better.
At home, I refry beans in lard if I have any, or in reserved bacon fat, which is basically the same thing, except it’s smoked. I hate to waste, and I enjoy the smoky taste this imparts upon the beans.
Again, feel free to use any color of bean. I’ve made excellent refried beans with everything from black to pinto to cannellini beans. The method and ratios remain the same.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 cups / 120g drained Frijoles Aguados
1 cup / 240ml reserved bean cooking liquid
¼ cup / 50g lard
½ tsp sea salt
In a bowl, mash the beans to a coarse paste with a potato masher or fork, gradually adding a few tablespoons of the reserved bean cooking liquid periodically as you mash, until you achieve the consistency you want. You don’t want any beans left whole, but it’s okay if some texture remains. If you prefer very smooth refried beans, you could use a blender or an immersion blender, but I like mine a bit chunky, so I mash mine by hand.
Warm the lard in a skillet over medium heat, until it’s melted. When you put the tip of a wooden spoon in the hot lard, the wood should sizzle. Add the mashed beans and the salt and then cook, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes. Drizzle in more of the remaining bean cooking liquid if needed to maintain the desired consistency. They should form a thick but creamy paste.
The beans can be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. They can also be frozen for up to 6 months, thawed, and reheated in a skillet over low heat.