FRIJOLES REFRITOS REFRIED BEANS

At my restaurants in Mexico City and San Francisco, I refry beans in vegetable oil because I want the menu to have as many vegetarian options as possible, especially in the basic dishes. To enhance the flavor of these beans, I fry minced onion in oil; olive oil and safflower oil work equally well.
Some purists argue that olive oil doesn’t belong in Mexican food, since olives aren’t native to central America. Well, neither are the pigs from which we get lard. It’s true that olive oil isn’t the most commonly used oil in Mexico, but my Italian maternal grandmother, Nonna, lived with us for part of every year, and she always cooked with it as matter of course, so I grew used to the taste of a mildly fruity olive oil in my Mexican food. When deep-frying, I use safflower oil, or another oil with a high smoke point. But there are dishes in which I enjoy the additional flavor imparted by olive oil, so that’s what I suggest when it’s what I would personally use.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 cups / 120g drained Frijoles Aguados (this page)
1 cup / 240ml reserved bean cooking liquid (this page)
¼ cup / 60ml safflower or olive oil
½ white onion, minced
½ tsp salt
In a bowl, mash the beans to a coarse paste with a potato masher or fork, gradually adding a few tablespoons of the reserved bean cooking liquid periodically as you mash, until you achieve the consistency you want. You don’t want any beans left whole, but it’s okay if some texture remains. If you prefer very smooth refried beans, you could use a blender or an immersion blender, but I like mine a bit chunky, so I mash by hand.
Warm the oil in a skillet over medium heat until it’s hot but not smoking. Add the onion and cook, stirring until translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mashed beans and the salt and then stir constantly for about 5 minutes. Drizzle in more of the remaining bean cooking liquid if needed to maintain the desired consistency. The beans should form a thick but creamy paste. Taste and add more salt if needed. In a bowl, mash the beans to a coarse paste with a potato masher or fork, gradually adding a few tablespoons of the reserved bean cooking liquid periodically as you mash, until you achieve the consistency you want. You don’t want any beans left whole, but it’s okay if some texture remains. If you prefer very smooth refried beans, you could use a blender or an immersion blender, but I like mine a bit chunky, so I mash by hand.
Warm the oil in a skillet over medium heat until it’s hot but not smoking. Add the onion and cook, stirring until translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mashed beans and the salt and then stir constantly for about 5 minutes. Drizzle in more of the remaining bean cooking liquid if needed to maintain the desired consistency. The beans should form a thick but creamy paste. Taste and add more salt if needed.
The beans can be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. They can also be frozen for up to 6 months, thawed, and reheated in a skillet over low heat.
FRIJOLES REFRITOS EN MANTECA BEANS REFRIED IN LARD